March 25, 2014 at 1:06 pm #822
A while ago I made a clock out of four adafruit 8×8 neopixel grids and an arduino mega.
I backed the gameframe at the Art level since I already had a frame up and running which would play a bunch of animations from an SD card. (Your frame itself looks fantastic, and mine isn’t a patch on it). The chance to get some more artwork was too great to miss.
Purpose of the post is to suggest another addition to the ini file. I added an option to reverse the animation after it has played which has a nice effects to some of your sequences:
Keep up the great work,
(Edited – I had some trouble getting the links to show)March 25, 2014 at 3:15 pm #823Jeremy WilliamsKeymaster
Oh wow, very cool! I love your frame. Very 2001/THX 1138. 🙂 Great idea too, but it will have to go on the list of possible user mods and you guys can decided what to take out in order to put more in. Or, more than likely, someone who can actually code will make mine more efficient and squeeze more stuff in there.March 25, 2014 at 3:36 pm #824
Thanks for the kind words. Really must get around to implementing a grid to space the vellum from the LEDs on mine to give it that proper GameFrame look.
Quite understand that you need to freeze the code. Just thought it might be worth sharing another setting that gives a different effect.
CheersMarch 27, 2014 at 7:09 pm #846
Bad form replying to my own post, but a quick follow up.
I 3D printed a grid to space the LEDs away from glass/vellum. First prototype, and I’m blown away by the difference.
There’s a tiny little bit of bleed from one square to another (only really noticeable when one pixel is bright white, and the next one turned off, but for a first pass it looks great.
Need to work out how to take a decent video of it now, sometimes getting a flickery effect on camera which can’t be seen by eye.
AndyMarch 27, 2014 at 10:57 pm #848Jeremy WilliamsKeymaster
Brilliant! Can we see a photo of your 3D print?March 28, 2014 at 2:18 pm #851
The adafruit panels have resistors on the top side which is stopping the grid from sitting flush on the pcb, which is why i’m getting the bleed between pixels.
Here’s another (poor quality) video of the frame running in spectrum analyser mode
Any tips on how to take a decent video? – I’m guessing it’s time to ditch the iphone and use a proper camera.
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